As I explained in my previous Phlog, food is culturally dealt with differently in Vietnam than in Thailand and Laos and probably other countries in Southeast Asia as well.
Some prefer to eat shark
What I find with food delivery services is mostly very quickly made food and instant food, similar to what is served in US fast food restaurants. I’ve been a little bit discouraged by the lack of variety.
wrap the noodles, the vegetables and the green wrapped minced pork in the rice paper on the upper right and dip in the sauce in the upper left
Department stores in Thailand and Laos tend to have extensive food courts but I haven’t seen that in Vietnam and I don’t see many people sitting around for a long period of time in restaurants. On the other hand they do seem to enjoy going to coffee houses for sitting and relaxing. Products served are drinks such as coffee, tea, fruit juice or other sweet drinks.
Smashed down and crisply cooked rice which comes out as a giant flat pancake
One thing to be attentive to is the amount of sugar used in any kind of drink as well as food. Very few restaurants I’ve been to serve food without sugar infused. It seems to be everywhere and in everything. Coffee is not excluded from sugary additives. While you can find Coffeemate or milk for coffee available in Thailand and Laos the only milky type additive I’ve been able to find in any place that serves coffee is condensed milk which contains a lot of sugar. so be prepared to eat a lot of sugar unless you bring your own additive. I carry extra coffeemate with me when I can because it is available nowhere in Vietnam, except in large quantities in some grocery stores.
I am laying out a flat noodle round which will be put into a machine to slice up as noodles
Small restaurants tend to serve one very narrow offering of some thing with rice or something with noodles so be prepared to walk around and ask and see what different kind of foods are a available. Language will be a major barrier if you don’t speak Vietnamese as it has been with me, but I use Google translate extensively and people seem to be helpful when some sort of translation software is used.
these noodles get their coloring from the natural ingredients inside the basket on the upper left and the beans in the bag
One thing I commented on earlier was the proliferation of coffee shops. It seems there are more coffee shops than restaurants, and sometimes, such as today, I’m able to see two or three coffee shops right next to each other competing for business. While they tout Vietnamese coffee it could very well be the beans are from some other place as I have indicated before. The arabica might be from Laos, but they will still call it Vietnamese coffee.
For vegetarians artichoke tea is plentiful
There doesn’t seem to be much spicy food but they do have some sauces on the table, especially a chili sauce that, from the outside looks like tomato ketchup but is really pretty spicy and of course contains sugar.
This is how most people seem to make their coffee in the morning with this ingenious aluminum filtering equipmentA good standard, chicken with riceThe speaker on the top of the building uses sparrow calls to get sparrows to come into the small holes and create their nests so the nest can be harvested for Bird’s Nest soup, an expensive delicacy
In general, the food tends to be more sugary, oily and much less tasty then Thai or Lao food so be prepared to walk around and find some thing that fits your taste.
Warning! The photo below may be disturbing!
There are “rumors” that Vietnamese eat dogs; some joke about where some stray dog went when it disappeared. This photo I took walking on the street on Phu Quoc island shows a man preparing a dog for the bbq spit. A dog nearby incessantly barked. My Lao friend says a dog will continue to bark at people who eat dog meat as well, the smell being evident. I don’t intend to confirm that scientifically.
Cham people (close to Cambodians) performing some traditional dances
Since I’ve been most recently traveling in Thailand and Laos, my perceptions of Vietnam is heavily influenced by those two places.
Tourist Restaurant (not currently open)
In general, I heard from several people that Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) was a wild place with motorcycles riding all over the place and a little bit crazy. While i found the “wildness” to be very much the opposite, since it seem much better organized, cleaner, and, much better maintained than I had expected, the craziness of the traffic was some thing that surprised me a little.
View from our hotel
Infrastructure – roads and public areas as well as cities, sidewalks and public facilities, seem to be much better organized than in Laos, and better organized and easier to access than in Thailand, so I was very impressed. Having been to several cities, I found the infrastructure to be extremely good.
cycle RIKSHAWS in Nah Trang by the beach walkway
Traffic – there seem to be 10 times more motorcycles than there are cars which is very different than Thailand since everyone in Thailand wants to have a big truck or SUV. Here in Vietnam it seems people are probably very frugal and are saving their money for some business venture or the future, and have opted to stick to motorcycles for daily transport. There’s a benefit to this. If there were as many cars per motorcycle in Vietnam as there are in Thailand, I’m not sure the traffic would really move at all. as for traffic lights it doesn’t seem there are many and there are many roundabouts. So it seems the aim of traffic regulators is to just keep vehicles moving and that seems to be the case. The problem is, even though there are designated road crossings for pedestrians, there are almost no stoplights so people have to walk in between the oncoming traffic which isbe a very dangerous thing to do, but it is some thing people just live with. The cars make their way around the people as do the motorcycles, and the people make their way around the cars and motorcycles as the vehicles honk their horns at the pedestrians. Maybe that’s part of the “wildness“ people were trying to explain. be very careful.
traffic dangers
Hotels – in general the hotels seem to be slightly more expensive than Thailand, but are generally very clean and well-maintained so you get what you pay for. For the price I am kind of impressed with the quality. One thing they have not improved from Thailand is they insist on putting slick tile in bathroom areas which is very dangerous. So if you visit Vietnam be careful and sure footed. The beds seem to be much more comfortable, softer than Thailand and Laos. The service provided by the staff is something that’s a little bit more difficult for me to comment on because while I can speak a little Thai and get by and communicate, I don’t know any Vietnamese, and it seems there are very few Hotels below the four-star level that have any language capability beyond Vietnamese. In general you can get things done, but it is often extremely difficult to expect assistance getting any kind of transport beyond a nearby taxi. Expecting any kind of concierge service is unreasonable. As for four-star hotels, they are really more like 3.5 Star.
Papa Taxi! The only way to go shopping!
Most of the hotels we stayed in seem to be extremely interested in the reviews we might leave on the booking services or Google maps. I never found this interest in any other country. They seem to be very sensitive about what people say about their hotel. One hotel found a driver for us to another place while it was raining And the fee, not negotiated before hand, was completely unreasonable so I wrote that comment on the hotel’s booking company review page. The shift manager came to our new hotel and explained they read that comment and had called the taxi company to come and refund the unreasonable fee, which they did. the hotel then asked if we could remove the negative comment, which I did since the taxi company was not related to the hotel and the hotel was very helpful getting a 100% refund from the taxi company.
take a sleeper bus even for 3 hour trips
transportation – Grab (similar to Uber) and other convenient bus and transport services are available. It seems transportation is pretty easy if you don’t have a car or motorcycle to rent. But the one thing to watch out for is the Taxi scam. While we got in the taxi from the airport, I was reading about the scam, and it happened just as I was reading the article. I looked away from the meter for about one minute and the taxi fare jumped up 70%. I mentioned this out loud, pointed to the meter and the driver just laughed. He charged us almost 3 times what it should cost to get from the airport to the hotel. make sure to negotiate the price before you get into a taxi or make sure it’s a reputable taxi (I have no recommendations since the rest of our trip we tried to use Grab as much as possible, which worked extremely well). the longer distance buses are OK and most have sleeper type accommodations and are fairly reasonably priced. Vietjet has some very reasonably priced airfares and seems to be a good way to get from further away places.
a photo shoot at the lake
Food – most of the restaurants seem to be noodles, very simple food or coffee shops. My impression is that coffee shops outnumber restaurants. It seems people are stopping by to eat to get something quick and then go do something. People here seem to be very energetic, but not really fascinated by the idea of having really nice delicious food and eating over a period of time. I don’t see many people drinking alcoholic beverages or smoking. Most people seem to be doing something productive or interested in doing something. Compared to Thailand and Laos the Vietnamese people are probably more interested in making money and creating businesses. that means restaurants cater to that cultural desire to eat and run. Of course, there are also many sandwich Restaurants that serve ban mi (bread with some thing on it). EAT AND RUN!
A typical place to eat and run
Buying things – while in Thailand and Laos, you see many people happy to attend to you in their shops and restaurants whether you buy something or not. I don’t see that same attitude in Vietnam. People seem very happy to welcome you in but if you want to disagree about the price or you just check out, people just turn away from you and that’s the end of the interaction and no interest in you after that. When you try to negotiate prices after receiving a service such as a nonnegotiated taxi ride, most people seem to be very irritated and aggressive. so, in general, people are very happy to have you buy a service from them but once you do it’s best you just leave without comment.
People at night time at the Central market in Da Lat
Scams – a few people mentioned there are various ways people in Vietnam are very good at getting money they don’t deserve from visitors. Our only experience with that so far is with taxis. But we are being very careful and paying attention to all the different ways we can avoid problems with people.
A Hindu style temple in Da Lat of course animals can visit the temple as well. This guy is obviously a permanent resident.Lion fish in the Nah Trang aquariumRoom right on the river at a lake near Da LatPeaceful easy feeling
The green and white flags are slightly east of the blue dot and represent the paksong area
Paksong is about 40 km east of Pakse, which is in the south of Laos and is known for its coffee plantations and excellent coffee beans. It’s very nice riding up there during the rainy season since everything is green, but traveling off the main road can be very tricky since the dirt roads are most often very wet and the fine red volcanic soil, good for coffee bean growing, is very dangerous for two wheel traveling. it’s extremely slippery. we slipped once putting a few scratches on the motorcycle.
At a local coffee shop, the baristo is very carefully creating a nice design on a cup of coffee with some milk.
The coffee processing factory.
Roasting tea leaves.
Here are ripe red coffee beans on the bush.
Here you see a ripe red coffee bean.Inside are two sections. One section has a very soft greenish gel like covering. the second section is a more dry brown half of the bean. When you separate the two halves, as you can see here, you notice the dryer brown section is somewhat concave.
To start out to this very beautiful place we booked a minivan to pick us up where we Dropped the motorcycle and drive us the next 2 to 3 hours to Vang Vieng. But the trip turned out to be a little bit more eventful and unusual than we planned. As soon as the minivan picked up all the passengers and then stopped off at their office in the center of Vientiane they change drivers and added a few more passengers. The new driver told the young Japanese fellow sitting in the front to move towards the back because they had a lady passenger who wanted to sit in front. After the Japanese customer moved to the back, the lady, Vietnamese, was told to sit also towards the back of the van while the driver instructed her male friend to sit in the front. From the accents we could tell that the new driver and the two customers were Vietnamese.
The driver spoke continuously in Vietnamese to the other passenger in the front. Nothing too unusual so far except the lie the driver told the Japanese customer. Then we got onto the expressway after going through the tollbooth, the driver pulled over and switched seats with the Vietnamese customer. I found this a little strange but, who knows, the passenger might’ve been an extra driver. Well, it turned out he wasn’t. After trying very nervously to get started in the minivan, continuing on the expressway, it seemed pretty certain he had no experience driving a minivan and was very uncertain on the road. After having almost 2 accidents driving the rest of the way to Vang Vieng I decided to ask the licensed driver of the minivan about the customer/driver. It turns out he was just a tourist, did not have a license to drive in Laos and could not speak Lao. What a strange trip. We survived.
the tourist driver on the lefttold by the hired driver to drive in the middle when going through the tunnelour driver so proud, sending a photo of the tourist driving to his friendkayakers enjoying the riverNice name for a restaurantBlue lagoon six, good for swimming Blue lagoon one. A hair-raising experience. See the jumper entering the water? Transparent wingsAre we in Paris? guess who!A resort in the countrysideRice fields enjoying a big, late lunchFrom part way up the trail to the viewpoint. The path was too slippery and dangerous to make it all the wayA group of Thai tourist rented ATVsA countryside homeBlue lagoon two US$100 a night bungalowsMy new best friendMice for saleconquering the calm rapidsKing of the lagoonblue lagoon sixpara planeing?Empty electric socket at the pool entrance. Shocking!The view from the roomMeeting some Japanese tourists on the way back to Vientiane
just after we left Koh Chang for Laos the main road on Koh Chang was partly destroyed, slid down the hill and destroyed my former bungalow on the beach
Pakse, Laos, is a small city in the south, on the Mekong close to a coffee growing area. It is a place you should visit if you visit Laos. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pakse)
This 10,000 Kip note shows the bridge and hills in the photo above this one.Visit the Buddha on the hill giving you the view.Near sunset.Kannon is found in many places.as Igor said, “walk this way”Lotus is ediblesubtle tasteyou need energy for this onethe countryside from a viewpointdinner timefancy coffee shop this was actually taken in Buda park in Vientiane areagoat meat restaurant. We ate noodlesso delicious I forgot to take the photo before eating. Great Korean foodruins of a massive, unfinished templecrocodile is a rockelephant in a rock this is the ruler who created this expensive temple siteprotecting the temple from insectstypical Khmer style temple windowa view from the top of the temple complexKorean food in pakse was deliciousa friend’s former teachera simple farm lunch; chicken with veggies and spicy saucecome to see who is visiting the farmso many people, in their spare time, weave material or create baskets for storage and cooking.the raw materialsome of the finished product selling for less than US 10 cents to a wholesaler.farm working shed complete with dogs, chickens, pigs and ducksa rural farm community store
the road to this farm was all dirt but a lot of it was just a mass of holes filled with water, extremely difficult for a small motorcycle to travel through. It was quite a challenge getting here without falling off into the mud
a typical countryside home The land is very dry. Without the adequate infrastructure for irrigated farming it’s very uncommon to have two harvest seasons in this country which greatly hinders the economy. One reason Thailand is more successful agriculturally is the ability to harvest twice a yearHome, Home on the rangethe only way to travel. Play motorcycle side car
Lao bears kept here kids watching the fish food is obviously flowing down from the waterfall some plants like these are very expensive thing sold in the marketplace at the end of the day a nice buffalo ice cream
Visiting the Tsutsumis and family after the funeral of Eli’s mother
Kalasin, Thailand
The great Naga on the hillpeople put coins in the Naga’s scales for good luck not in any shape now to eat usfrom a pile of bones to thisprimitive in appearanceareas of Thailand with tons of bonesthe threat is realhope this is faster than the hotel’s internetgood noodles for lunchenjoying their nice house, out of the rainI receive a blessing from a Chinese monk for the offerings I gave the temple. I dedicated this blessing to a friendship
Luang Prabang
grand design, train station. no vehicles allowed at the vehicle access area. rice is on the way on the trainthe monks arrive.the lunch. noodles, of coursethey have avocado smoothies. delicious. about 80 cents (US)a Ruben sandwich for breakfastnice room in front of the morning marketa tour boat for the monkseverything on the ferry
an electric scooter, from china, of course.lookin’ out my backdoorNaga boat to carry the reveredI stop at temples often and stay quiet (meditate?) as a break from driving or during a walking daygood advise. know this before showing up on Southeast AsiaVientiane in KANJI is “ten thousand elephants”request on the left – be careful which finger you see doing this. I didn’t see at first but it is a finger raised to lips.
To “disrobe” is the process for a monk to leave monastic/temple life. In Laos a friend who was until recently a monk left temple life at the age of 25 after 10 years as a novice and 4 years as a monk. In some blog I will comment on why young men in Laos and Thailand become monks but this blog will focus on the “disrobing”.
I must explain there is a difference between the two ranks of those in temple life. Firstly someone joins the temple as a novice from the age of 12 onward. At the age of 20 or 21 a novice can be “ordained” as a MONK if he so chooses.
You might think it is a simple thing to just “leave” the temple and join the rest of society but in Laos the process is somewhat complicated.
This file photo taken in the town of Luang Prabang on February 21, 2007 shows women along a street in the early morning (around 6 am) offering food as alms to monks for merit and “compassion” since, traditionally, monks did not cook or prepare food). Receiving alms is the centrepiece of the strict daily routine undertaken by monks drawn to the ancient temples which fleck the UNESCO-listed town. / AFP PHOTO / Frank Zeller (this explanation came with the photo and i edited out the mistakes.)
First the monk must make up his own mind to “disrobe”. Normally he then consults with the family and discusses his decision. It could be the family persuades him to continue as a monk but in the end it is the monk’s decision to leave temple live.
Once the monk has made the final decision he will go to the Abbot of the temple and ask when the best day is for him to “disrobe”. Once the date is set the monk will fill out the document declaring his decision to “disrobe” and it will be “stamped” by the Abbot and the head of the temple district. This document is very important as I will explain.
A Monk’s activities
In Laos everyone is required to get an ID card. Monks can have a national ID card with a photo of them in robes or an ID issued by the temple. These documents are used to apply for a Passport which identifies the person as a monk. When the monk disrobes the document stamped by the Abbot and temple office is required to apply for a “layman” (regular citizen) ID card and passport. Once that ID card is issued the ID card and the family book indicating the name and address of the people in the family are used to apply for a passport. The monk is registered in the temple “family book”. Once he leaves the temple he needs to be re-registered with the family in the family book as the next step.
The application for the passport needs to be filled out with a photo of the applicant as well as a color copy of the ID card. That application form is then stamped by the village head to verify the details of the application form. The person then goes to the “Consular Office” to line up to get an appointment for an interview which only confirms the details in the application.
If the monk opens a bank account the name on the account has “monk” printed after the family name and is the account name. When the monk disrobes he needs to change the name on his bank accounts to delete “monk” in the name on the account. The disrobing document is necessary to make this change.
In short a monk is identified throughout society as a monk and receives sometimes special treatment while they are restricted by their rules and regulations regarding their monk-hood and vows. In Laos and Thailand, if a monk is not in their required monk’s robes (required at all times) and stopped by police, the police will normally ask to see the ID card. Seeing the ID card identifying the person as a “monk” the police will turn the person over to the temple for discipline which often results in banishment from temple life. So there is a strong relationship between the monk’s social requirements and the documents they have identifying them.
In Laos, as in Thailand, the prefixes before the names are often used in spoken language. “Tao” is generally used for men younger than 40 or so. If a man is named SOMPONE, he is addressed as “Tao Sompone”. If Sompone disrobes as a novice he is addressed as Xieng Sompone while a monk who disrobes is addressed as “Tid Sompone”. This change in prefix will go on for a certain period of time by those who know him as a former monk.
By the way, you can recognize a monk who has recently disrobed; short hair and shaved eyebrows.
Pha Daeng Peak ViewpointAfter stopping at a gas station’s finally one gas station has gas. There is a huge gas shortage in Laos right now.
Nong Kiau is a really nice place to visit but be prepared to be a hiker and hill climber.
Nope. Not enough gas for the van.A few Israelis and a monk.contemplating the quality of being, or bean (coffee bean)something wrong!pretty desolate thanks to covid.scooters are cement carrying workhorsesLocal KHAO SOIgood plant for making soup for pigs but it will cause you to itch if you touch it.TEAKat the restaurantSOMTAM, fried pork and a spicy pork dish. That burning sensation.It was a very tiring trek to the topview from the hotel balcony from the balcony viewing river commercevery nice texturethe bamboo bridge to the failed climb from hellleeches do some significant bloodletting. It was hard to stop.