Vietnam – first impressions

Cham people (close to Cambodians) performing some traditional dances

Since I’ve been most recently traveling in Thailand and Laos, my perceptions of Vietnam is heavily influenced by those two places.

Tourist Restaurant (not currently open)

In general, I heard from several people that Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) was a wild place with motorcycles riding all over the place and a little bit crazy. While i found the “wildness” to be very much the opposite, since it seem much better organized, cleaner, and, much better maintained than I had expected, the craziness of the traffic was some thing that surprised me a little.

View from our hotel

Infrastructure – roads and public areas as well as cities, sidewalks and public facilities, seem to be much better organized than in Laos, and better organized and easier to access than in Thailand, so I was very impressed. Having been to several cities, I found the infrastructure to be extremely good.

cycle RIKSHAWS in Nah Trang by the beach walkway

Traffic – there seem to be 10 times more motorcycles than there are cars which is very different than Thailand since everyone in Thailand wants to have a big truck or SUV. Here in Vietnam it seems people are probably very frugal and are saving their money for some business venture or the future, and have opted to stick to motorcycles for daily transport. There’s a benefit to this. If there were as many cars per motorcycle in Vietnam as there are in Thailand, I’m not sure the traffic would really move at all. as for traffic lights it doesn’t seem there are many and there are many roundabouts. So it seems the aim of traffic regulators is to just keep vehicles moving and that seems to be the case. The problem is, even though there are designated road crossings for pedestrians, there are almost no stoplights so people have to walk in between the oncoming traffic which isbe a very dangerous thing to do, but it is some thing people just live with. The cars make their way around the people as do the motorcycles, and the people make their way around the cars and motorcycles as the vehicles honk their horns at the pedestrians. Maybe that’s part of the “wildness“ people were trying to explain. be very careful.

traffic dangers

Hotels – in general the hotels seem to be slightly more expensive than Thailand, but are generally very clean and well-maintained so you get what you pay for. For the price I am kind of impressed with the quality. One thing they have not improved from Thailand is they insist on putting slick tile in bathroom areas which is very dangerous. So if you visit Vietnam be careful and sure footed. The beds seem to be much more comfortable, softer than Thailand and Laos. The service provided by the staff is something that’s a little bit more difficult for me to comment on because while I can speak a little Thai and get by and communicate, I don’t know any Vietnamese, and it seems there are very few Hotels below the four-star level that have any language capability beyond Vietnamese. In general you can get things done, but it is often extremely difficult to expect assistance getting any kind of transport beyond a nearby taxi. Expecting any kind of concierge service is unreasonable. As for four-star hotels, they are really more like 3.5 Star.

Papa Taxi! The only way to go shopping!

Most of the hotels we stayed in seem to be extremely interested in the reviews we might leave on the booking services or Google maps. I never found this interest in any other country. They seem to be very sensitive about what people say about their hotel. One hotel found a driver for us to another place while it was raining And the fee, not negotiated before hand, was completely unreasonable so I wrote that comment on the hotel’s booking company review page. The shift manager came to our new hotel and explained they read that comment and had called the taxi company to come and refund the unreasonable fee, which they did. the hotel then asked if we could remove the negative comment, which I did since the taxi company was not related to the hotel and the hotel was very helpful getting a 100% refund from the taxi company.

take a sleeper bus even for 3 hour trips

transportation – Grab (similar to Uber) and other convenient bus and transport services are available. It seems transportation is pretty easy if you don’t have a car or motorcycle to rent. But the one thing to watch out for is the Taxi scam. While we got in the taxi from the airport, I was reading about the scam, and it happened just as I was reading the article. I looked away from the meter for about one minute and the taxi fare jumped up 70%. I mentioned this out loud, pointed to the meter and the driver just laughed. He charged us almost 3 times what it should cost to get from the airport to the hotel. make sure to negotiate the price before you get into a taxi or make sure it’s a reputable taxi (I have no recommendations since the rest of our trip we tried to use Grab as much as possible, which worked extremely well). the longer distance buses are OK and most have sleeper type accommodations and are fairly reasonably priced. Vietjet has some very reasonably priced airfares and seems to be a good way to get from further away places.

a photo shoot at the lake

Food – most of the restaurants seem to be noodles, very simple food or coffee shops. My impression is that coffee shops outnumber restaurants. It seems people are stopping by to eat to get something quick and then go do something. People here seem to be very energetic, but not really fascinated by the idea of having really nice delicious food and eating over a period of time. I don’t see many people drinking alcoholic beverages or smoking. Most people seem to be doing something productive or interested in doing something. Compared to Thailand and Laos the Vietnamese people are probably more interested in making money and creating businesses. that means restaurants cater to that cultural desire to eat and run. Of course, there are also many sandwich Restaurants that serve ban mi (bread with some thing on it). EAT AND RUN!

A typical place to eat and run

Buying things – while in Thailand and Laos, you see many people happy to attend to you in their shops and restaurants whether you buy something or not. I don’t see that same attitude in Vietnam. People seem very happy to welcome you in but if you want to disagree about the price or you just check out, people just turn away from you and that’s the end of the interaction and no interest in you after that. When you try to negotiate prices after receiving a service such as a nonnegotiated taxi ride, most people seem to be very irritated and aggressive. so, in general, people are very happy to have you buy a service from them but once you do it’s best you just leave without comment.

People at night time at the Central market in Da Lat

Scams – a few people mentioned there are various ways people in Vietnam are very good at getting money they don’t deserve from visitors. Our only experience with that so far is with taxis. But we are being very careful and paying attention to all the different ways we can avoid problems with people.

A Hindu style temple in Da Lat
of course animals can visit the temple as well. This guy is obviously a permanent resident.
Lion fish in the Nah Trang aquarium
Room right on the river at a lake near Da Lat
Peaceful easy feeling

The song of coffee in paksong

The green and white flags are slightly east of the blue dot and represent the paksong area

Paksong is about 40 km east of Pakse, which is in the south of Laos and is known for its coffee plantations and excellent coffee beans.  It’s very nice riding up there during the rainy season since everything is green, but traveling off the main road can be very tricky since the dirt roads are most often very wet and the fine red volcanic soil, good for coffee bean growing, is very dangerous for two wheel traveling. it’s extremely slippery. we slipped once putting a few scratches on the motorcycle.

At a local coffee shop, the baristo is very carefully creating a nice design on a cup of coffee with some milk. 

The coffee processing factory. 

Roasting tea leaves. 

Here are ripe red coffee beans on the bush.

Here you see a ripe red coffee bean.
Inside are two sections. One section has a very soft greenish gel like covering.  the second section is a more dry brown half of the bean.  
When you separate the two halves, as you can see here, you notice the dryer brown section is somewhat concave.  

Bopping Around Vang Vieng

To start out to this very beautiful place we booked a minivan to pick us up where we Dropped the motorcycle and drive us the next 2 to 3 hours to Vang Vieng. But the trip turned out to be a little bit more eventful and unusual than we planned. As soon as the minivan picked up all the passengers and then stopped off at their office in the center of Vientiane they change drivers and added a few more passengers. The new driver told the young Japanese fellow sitting in the front to move towards the back because they had a lady passenger who wanted to sit in front. After the Japanese customer moved to the back, the lady, Vietnamese, was told to sit also towards the back of the van while the driver instructed her male friend to sit in the front. From the accents we could tell that the new driver and the two customers were Vietnamese.

The driver spoke continuously in Vietnamese to the other passenger in the front. Nothing too unusual so far except the lie the driver told the Japanese customer. Then we got onto the expressway after going through the tollbooth, the driver pulled over and switched seats with the Vietnamese customer. I found this a little strange but, who knows, the passenger might’ve been an extra driver. Well, it turned out he wasn’t. After trying very nervously to get started in the minivan, continuing on the expressway, it seemed pretty certain he had no experience driving a minivan and was very uncertain on the road. After having almost 2 accidents driving the rest of the way to Vang Vieng I decided to ask the licensed driver of the minivan about the customer/driver. It turns out he was just a tourist, did not have a license to drive in Laos and could not speak Lao. What a strange trip. We survived.

the tourist driver on the left
told by the hired driver to drive in the middle when going through the tunnel
our driver so proud, sending a photo of the tourist driving to his friend
kayakers enjoying the river
Nice name for a restaurant
Blue lagoon six, good for swimming
Blue lagoon one. A hair-raising experience. See the jumper entering the water?
Transparent wings
Are we in Paris?
guess who!
A resort in the countryside
Rice fields
enjoying a big, late lunch
From part way up the trail to the viewpoint. The path was too slippery and dangerous to make it all the way
A group of Thai tourist rented ATVs
A countryside home
Blue lagoon two
US$100 a night bungalows
My new best friend
Mice for sale
conquering the calm rapids
King of the lagoon
blue lagoon six
para planeing?
Empty electric socket at the pool entrance. Shocking!
The view from the room
Meeting some Japanese tourists on the way back to Vientiane

just after we left Koh Chang for Laos the main road on Koh Chang was partly destroyed, slid down the hill and destroyed my former bungalow on the beach

Parking in Pakse

The quiet city of Pakse on the Mekong

Pakse, Laos, is a small city in the south, on the Mekong close to a coffee growing area. It is a place you should visit if you visit Laos. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pakse)

This 10,000 Kip note shows the bridge and hills in the photo above this one.
Visit the Buddha on the hill giving you the view.
Near sunset.
Kannon is found in many places.
as Igor said, “walk this way”
Lotus is edible
subtle taste
you need energy for this one
the countryside from a viewpoint
dinner time
fancy coffee shop
this was actually taken in Buda park in Vientiane area
goat meat restaurant. We ate noodles
so delicious I forgot to take the photo before eating. Great Korean food
ruins of a massive, unfinished temple
crocodile is a rock
elephant in a rock
this is the ruler who created this expensive temple site
protecting the temple from insects
typical Khmer style temple window
a view from the top of the temple complex
Korean food in pakse was delicious
a friend’s former teacher
a simple farm lunch; chicken with veggies and spicy sauce
come to see who is visiting the farm
so many people, in their spare time, weave material or create baskets for storage and cooking.
the raw material
some of the finished product selling for less than US 10 cents to a wholesaler.
farm working shed complete with dogs, chickens, pigs and ducks
a rural farm community store

the road to this farm was all dirt but a lot of it was just a mass of holes filled with water, extremely difficult for a small motorcycle to travel through. It was quite a challenge getting here without falling off into the mud

a typical countryside home
The land is very dry. Without the adequate infrastructure for irrigated farming it’s very uncommon to have two harvest seasons in this country which greatly hinders the economy. One reason Thailand is more successful agriculturally is the ability to harvest twice a year
Home, Home on the range
the only way to travel. Play motorcycle side car

Waterfall near Luang Prabang – Kuang Si

Beautiful flowers
interesting flowers

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuang_Si_Falls

Lao bears
Lao bears kept here
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
Waterfall near Luang Prabang - Kuang Si
 kids watching the fish
kids watching the fish
Kuang Si waterfall
food is obviously flowing down from the waterfall
Beautiful plants
some plants like these are very expensive thing sold in the marketplace
Buffalo ice cream
at the end of the day a nice buffalo ice cream

Here and there!

Visiting the Tsutsumis and family after the funeral of Eli’s mother

Kalasin, Thailand

The great Naga on the hill
people put coins in the Naga’s scales for good luck

not in any shape now to eat us
from a pile of bones to this
primitive in appearance
areas of Thailand with tons of bones
the threat is real
hope this is faster than the hotel’s internet
good noodles for lunch
enjoying their nice house, out of the rain
I receive a blessing from a Chinese monk for the offerings I gave the temple. I dedicated this blessing to a friendship

Luang Prabang

grand design, train station. no vehicles allowed at the vehicle access area.
rice is on the way

on the train
the monks arrive.
the lunch. noodles, of course
they have avocado smoothies. delicious. about 80 cents (US)
a Ruben sandwich for breakfast
nice room in front of the morning market
a tour boat for the monks
everything on the ferry

an electric scooter, from china, of course.

lookin’ out my backdoor
Naga boat to carry the revered
I stop at temples often and stay quiet (meditate?) as a break from driving or during a walking day
good advise. know this before showing up on Southeast Asia
Vientiane in KANJI is “ten thousand elephants”
request on the left – be careful which finger you see doing this. I didn’t see at first but it is a finger raised to lips.

A Monk Disrobes

Lao Monks

To “disrobe” is the process for a monk to leave monastic/temple life. In Laos a friend who was until recently a monk left temple life at the age of 25 after 10 years as a novice and 4 years as a monk. In some blog I will comment on why young men in Laos and Thailand become monks but this blog will focus on the “disrobing”.

I must explain there is a difference between the two ranks of those in temple life. Firstly someone joins the temple as a novice from the age of 12 onward. At the age of 20 or 21 a novice can be “ordained” as a MONK if he so chooses.

You might think it is a simple thing to just “leave” the temple and join the rest of society but in Laos the process is somewhat complicated.

This file photo taken in the town of Luang Prabang on February 21, 2007 shows women along a street in the early morning (around 6 am) offering food as alms to monks for merit and “compassion” since, traditionally, monks did not cook or prepare food). Receiving alms is the centrepiece of the strict daily routine undertaken by monks drawn to the ancient temples which fleck the UNESCO-listed town. / AFP PHOTO / Frank Zeller (this explanation came with the photo and i edited out the mistakes.)

First the monk must make up his own mind to “disrobe”. Normally he then consults with the family and discusses his decision. It could be the family persuades him to continue as a monk but in the end it is the monk’s decision to leave temple live.

Once the monk has made the final decision he will go to the Abbot of the temple and ask when the best day is for him to “disrobe”. Once the date is set the monk will fill out the document declaring his decision to “disrobe” and it will be “stamped” by the Abbot and the head of the temple district. This document is very important as I will explain.

A Monk’s activities

In Laos everyone is required to get an ID card. Monks can have a national ID card with a photo of them in robes or an ID issued by the temple. These documents are used to apply for a Passport which identifies the person as a monk. When the monk disrobes the document stamped by the Abbot and temple office is required to apply for a “layman” (regular citizen) ID card and passport. Once that ID card is issued the ID card and the family book indicating the name and address of the people in the family are used to apply for a passport. The monk is registered in the temple “family book”. Once he leaves the temple he needs to be re-registered with the family in the family book as the next step.

The application for the passport needs to be filled out with a photo of the applicant as well as a color copy of the ID card. That application form is then stamped by the village head to verify the details of the application form. The person then goes to the “Consular Office” to line up to get an appointment for an interview which only confirms the details in the application.

If the monk opens a bank account the name on the account has “monk” printed after the family name and is the account name. When the monk disrobes he needs to change the name on his bank accounts to delete “monk” in the name on the account. The disrobing document is necessary to make this change.

In short a monk is identified throughout society as a monk and receives sometimes special treatment while they are restricted by their rules and regulations regarding their monk-hood and vows. In Laos and Thailand, if a monk is not in their required monk’s robes (required at all times) and stopped by police, the police will normally ask to see the ID card. Seeing the ID card identifying the person as a “monk” the police will turn the person over to the temple for discipline which often results in banishment from temple life. So there is a strong relationship between the monk’s social requirements and the documents they have identifying them.

In Laos, as in Thailand, the prefixes before the names are often used in spoken language. “Tao” is generally used for men younger than 40 or so. If a man is named SOMPONE, he is addressed as “Tao Sompone”. If Sompone disrobes as a novice he is addressed as Xieng Sompone while a monk who disrobes is addressed as “Tid Sompone”. This change in prefix will go on for a certain period of time by those who know him as a former monk.

By the way, you can recognize a monk who has recently disrobed; short hair and shaved eyebrows.

Here ends the blog on a monk “disrobing”.

Outlying parts of Luang Prabang

Pha Daeng Peak Viewpoint
After stopping at a gas station’s finally one gas station has gas. There is a huge gas shortage in Laos right now.

Nong Kiau is a really nice place to visit but be prepared to be a hiker and hill climber.

Nope. Not enough gas for the van.
A few Israelis and a monk.
contemplating the quality of being, or bean (coffee bean)
something wrong!
pretty desolate thanks to covid.
scooters are cement carrying workhorses
Local KHAO SOI
good plant for making soup for pigs but it will cause you to itch if you touch it.
TEAK
at the restaurant
SOMTAM, fried pork and a spicy pork dish. That burning sensation.
It was a very tiring trek to the top
view from the hotel balcony
from the balcony viewing river commerce
very nice texture
the bamboo bridge to the failed climb from hell
leeches do some significant bloodletting. It was hard to stop.

Luang Prabang – Part 2

Old colonial style

did you know that Laos was at one time a colony of France? Laos is on the east side of Thailand and the British colony of Burma was on the west side of Thailand. Did you know that Thailand played off the British and the French to get more territory? Did you know that the Lao and Thai cultures are very much the same? Did you know that many of the streets in Vientiane are called “Rue”, french for “street”? Did you know that the Lao and Thai languages, written and spoken, are very similar?

This is about the age to start teaching kids to drive a motorcycle
A village street
A local temple. This isn’t a wealthy community
our transport to the hotel from the bus station
Delicious food everywhere
looking pregnant
inexpensive smoothies. We had avocado mixes
Zurich Cafe. Good bread. Make sure it is freshly baked.
Jerky drying on the street
People buy these cages with birds in them and then let them go. By the way, new shoes. Aren’t they nice?
A map of the town attractions
A view from the top
Phousi Overlook
Kids on the playground
most of the official building signage is in French as well as Lao. And of course you can understand this much French, right? After all, half of English is French.
Making sugarcane juice
Many monks in this town and a great many of them have either orange or black umbrellas to keep the sun and rain off them
What would a photo blog of a colonial town be like without the photo of an old car?!
A Hill tribe restaurant
an old stupah
mostly due to Covid, no business for two years, you see the signs everywhere. People just could not afford to stay in business and yet they have to continue paying property taxes so they need to do something with the property
The attractions around the city
At the Zurich Café we had an avocado salad and a ciabatta sandwich