Kalasin, Thailand
not in any shape now to eat us
Luang Prabang
on the train
Here and there!
not in any shape now to eat us
on the train
not in any shape now to eat us
on the train
A Monk Disrobes
To “disrobe” is the process for a monk to leave monastic/temple life. In Laos a friend who was until recently a monk left temple life at the age of 25 after 10 years as a novice and 4 years as a monk. In some blog I will comment on why young men in Laos and Thailand become monks but this blog will focus on the “disrobing”.
I must explain there is a difference between the two ranks of those in temple life. Firstly someone joins the temple as a novice from the age of 12 onward. At the age of 20 or 21 a novice can be “ordained” as a MONK if he so chooses.
You might think it is a simple thing to just “leave” the temple and join the rest of society but in Laos the process is somewhat complicated.
First the monk must make up his own mind to “disrobe”. Normally he then consults with the family and discusses his decision. It could be the family persuades him to continue as a monk but in the end it is the monk’s decision to leave temple live.
Once the monk has made the final decision he will go to the Abbot of the temple and ask when the best day is for him to “disrobe”. Once the date is set the monk will fill out the document declaring his decision to “disrobe” and it will be “stamped” by the Abbot and the head of the temple district. This document is very important as I will explain.
In Laos everyone is required to get an ID card. Monks can have a national ID card with a photo of them in robes or an ID issued by the temple. These documents are used to apply for a Passport which identifies the person as a monk. When the monk disrobes the document stamped by the Abbot and temple office is required to apply for a “layman” (regular citizen) ID card and passport. Once that ID card is issued the ID card and the family book indicating the name and address of the people in the family are used to apply for a passport. The monk is registered in the temple “family book”. Once he leaves the temple he needs to be re-registered with the family in the family book as the next step.
The application for the passport needs to be filled out with a photo of the applicant as well as a color copy of the ID card. That application form is then stamped by the village head to verify the details of the application form. The person then goes to the “Consular Office” to line up to get an appointment for an interview which only confirms the details in the application.
If the monk opens a bank account the name on the account has “monk” printed after the family name and is the account name. When the monk disrobes he needs to change the name on his bank accounts to delete “monk” in the name on the account. The disrobing document is necessary to make this change.
In short a monk is identified throughout society as a monk and receives sometimes special treatment while they are restricted by their rules and regulations regarding their monk-hood and vows. In Laos and Thailand, if a monk is not in their required monk’s robes (required at all times) and stopped by police, the police will normally ask to see the ID card. Seeing the ID card identifying the person as a “monk” the police will turn the person over to the temple for discipline which often results in banishment from temple life. So there is a strong relationship between the monk’s social requirements and the documents they have identifying them.
In Laos, as in Thailand, the prefixes before the names are often used in spoken language. “Tao” is generally used for men younger than 40 or so. If a man is named SOMPONE, he is addressed as “Tao Sompone”. If Sompone disrobes as a novice he is addressed as Xieng Sompone while a monk who disrobes is addressed as “Tid Sompone”. This change in prefix will go on for a certain period of time by those who know him as a former monk.
By the way, you can recognize a monk who has recently disrobed; short hair and shaved eyebrows.
Here ends the blog on a monk “disrobing”.
Outlying parts of Luang Prabang
Nong Kiau is a really nice place to visit but be prepared to be a hiker and hill climber.
Luang Prabang – Part 2
did you know that Laos was at one time a colony of France? Laos is on the east side of Thailand and the British colony of Burma was on the west side of Thailand. Did you know that Thailand played off the British and the French to get more territory? Did you know that the Lao and Thai cultures are very much the same? Did you know that many of the streets in Vientiane are called “Rue”, french for “street”? Did you know that the Lao and Thai languages, written and spoken, are very similar?
Luang Prabang – The Old Capital of Laos
Getting there means riding the new Lao/Chinese railway fast train which says it’s supposed to be running at 127 km/h. But getting on the train is a complete mess. First you have to line up to get all your documents checked including a vaccination certificate, ID card (passport) and ticket. Then you have to sit and wait one hour until they tell you to line up again to check tickets to get to the platform. Of course the tickets are checked again once you get to your seat. The system was developed by the Chinese and implemented by Lao authorities. The ride was nice.
Vientiane, Laos in the Summer
Leaving Thailand from Nong Khai was just a 10 minute taxi ride from the hotel. With a departure stamp and a bus ticket of $1US I rode to the Lao Immigration office to get my visa on arrival for 1,700 Baht (I understand there is a surcharge on this day I entered, Saturday). From there to the hotel and around town.
did you know that Thailand invaded Laos? Did you know that a large part of Laos was given by the French to Thailand? Did you know that Lao and Thai languages are very similar?
The Emerald Buddha Museum
this museum really commemorates the emerald Buddha which was stolen by Siam (Thailand) and placed in wat PraKeou in Bangkok. Some of the artifacts here are those which went along with the temple which was destroyed.
Pra Bang
Wat Sisaket
this is the only temple which was not burned by the invading Siam army.
Michai
Wat Phra That Luang
WAT = Temple PHRA = monk or buddha image (in Lao language PHRA also is KUBA) THAT = stupah LUANG = Grand
Mucking around in Mukdahan
Mukdahan is an interesting town on the Mekong river, a town I last visited last over 25 years ago. What really surprised me about the town is good food available of many nationalities. If you’re interested to know more about the town I’m including the Wikipedia link explaining everything.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mukdahan
Kwan Yin (KANNON) is a popular image
Serene Surin
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surin,_Thailand
If you’re interested in Surin use the link above to get more information.
The interesting thing about this area is it’s a mix of different cultures; Lao, Khmer (Cambodia) and Kuay. Quote from the museum: “This is the native population of Surin, Si Sa Ket, Buri Ram, Ubon Ratchathani and some parts of Maha Sarakham. They speak Mon-Khmer, and their physical appearance is very similar to the Semang. They have thick lips and curly hair. Some scholars believe that the Kuay are the same group as the people who speak Munda, who live in eastern India. During the Bangkok Period, when Surin was unable to meet Its tax demands from Bangkok, the administrators sent Kuay people as tribute. These Kuay have their own rituals and traditions. The best known is elephant capture, and the healing ceremony with its attendant rituals to cure the sick.”
The Dvaravati Culture in Isan, or northeast Thailand, has its own identity that differs from that in the central and other parts of the country. One of the distinguishing characteristics is the concept in making large Buddhist boundary stones, which are not found anywhere else. These were made of large, flat, rectangular sandstone slabs, with tips shaped like a lotus petal. Some were carved with decorative designs,and others are plain. Most of the designs are relevant to Buddhism, such as the boundary stones from Fa Daed Sung Yang in Kalasin and Khonsawan of Chaiphum. The locations of the boundary stones varied, and were significant in different ways:
1. Some were located around ancient monuments, such as the boundary stones of Wat Dhammachaksemaram. Sungnoen district, Nakhon Ratchasima
2. Others delineated the rectangular space which might have symbolized the ordination hall for monks, such as the boundary stones of Muang Phai, Khornburi district, Nakhon Ratchasima
3. Some stones surrounded large mounds, such as the boundary stones at Ban Khonsawan. Khonsawan district, Chaiphum
In Surin. old manufacturing centers for Dvaravati boundary stones have been found at the ancient communities of Ban Trum.
Sikhoraphum district, and Noen Simma Yai. Non Simma Noi and Ban Plaikhla in Chumphonburi district.
Dvaravati culture in Isan declined in the 11th century.When the powerful ancient Khmer culture of Angkor spread through and began to dominate this part of Thailand. Sera stones at Ban True in Sikhoraphum district,Surin Province
Phanom Sawai Forest Park photos below
Wats Galore!
At Wat Maha Wanaram it seems as though I walked in on a celebration so I just tiptoed and took a few photos. All of the temples in this phlog are in Ubon Rachatani, the Northeast part of Thailand, heavy with old Khmer (Cambodia) and Lao influences. The Northease is often called “Lao” since it was part of Lao until presented to Thailand by the French Colonialist authorities who governed Laos. It is a wonderful place to visit.
Wat Na Kwai
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Wat Sa Prasan Suk
Wat Tai Phrachao Yai Ong Tue
The potpourri of temples
On to Sisaket!
