Palermo Royal Palace

the Palermo Royal Palace is definitely a “must see” place in the city. You should make time to spend a couple hours there. There might be a different exhibit going on when you visit. I noticed that in many of the palaces which were given up by the owners for financial reasons have been turned into exhibition places, a great chance for the public to see all different kinds of interesting things.

The Royal carriage

MATERIALS. wood, metal, leather, textiles (among them velvet and damask), stucco, gold and silver foil. On April 3r’, 1766 the Golden Carriage of the Prince of Butera, 1st Peer of the Kingdom of Sicily, opens the sumptuous procession of the 120 Peers of the Kingdom, for the inauguration of the oldest Parliament in the world.  The carriage, on the occasion of the “gallery with dance party” organized in the halls of the Royal Palace, parades through the city streets. In the 19th century its restoration is commissioned by Pietro Lanza e Branciforte, Prince of Trabia and of Butera; it is then abandoned, dismantled and stored in the Palazzo Butera warehouses. In 1952 it is reassembled by the production of Panaria Film on the occasion of the realization of the film “La Carrozza d’Oro” (“The Golden Carriage”) by Jean Renoir, with Anna Magnani, a great actress and unsurpassable performer and Rossano Brazzi; the film, produced by the Sicilian film company, is the first ever made in Technicolor.  In the same year the carriage, taken to the Venice Festival, is used by Anna Magnani to inaugurate the event, giving great European and international visibility to the city of Palermo.  The Carriage was never placed in and exhibited in a city museum. In 1968 the Golden Carriage is purchased, according to the wish of then President of the Sicilian Regional Assembly Rosario Lanza, from a group of antique dealers, who had previously bought it from the heirs of Pietro Lanza e Branciforte.

Large tree in the Palermo Royal Palace Garden
this reminded me of the large Bodie trees in India and Southeast Asia.
Garden
Palermo Royal Palace Garden

The urban fortifications underneath the Duke of Montalto Halls. The huge defensive structures, visible here, were discovered in 1984 during an emergency intervention carried out by the Superintendence fe Archaeology of Palermo, under the direction of Rosalia Camerate Scovazzo.  They pertain to three different phases concerning the fortifications o Palermo and include a gate to the town connecting the urban road network to the peri-urban territory and, in ancient times, to the area where the necropolis stood. This extraordinary concentration of defensive works can be explained by the fact that this area was of great importance in the control of Palermo as it was the most exposed and accessible side compared to the other sides protected by the rivers Kemonia and Papireto The oldest fortifications were built using a very regular technique of carefully squared blocks, and placed without the use of mortar. Along them is the town gate, 5.18 m wide, flanked by two towers, and a poster, 0.90 m wide, flanked by a small tower. They are a segment of the Punic Panormos fortifications, dating back, according to some scholars, to the middle of the V century B.C., or to the IV/III century according to some others comparing it to the walls of Selinunte’s first Hellenistic age Later, the defences were strengthened through the construction of a new wall, leant over the previous one and made of big irregular blocks (up to 1.80 m), placed, as in the previous case, without the use of mortar and stuffed with stones. The town gate was made smaller (2.50 m) and covered by an arch; the postern was closed. These works have been dated back to the first half of the Ill century B.C., that is, during the decades preceding the First Punic war (264-241 B.C.) and they are explained by the need to adapt the town defences to the new siege techniques and to the use of war machines. These new walls protected the town for a long time, until the Islamic age; according to some scholars this town gate can be identified as one of Balarm’s gates the Arab geographers talk about, the Bab Ibn Qurhub (Gate of Ibn Qurhub) or the Bãb al-Riyad (Gate to the Gardens). During the late Islamic age or during the Norman age, between the late XI and the first half of the XII century, major transformations were carried out: the gate was closed, so modifying the access routes into the town, and a new defensive line was built running parallel with the previous ones, to which it was connected through some section walls, probably counterforts. The new fortifications were made of medium sized ashlars cemented by abundant lime mortar. Elena Pezzini

Decorated cart
a decorated cart probably for ceremonies
Interesting hot house painting
I just found this painting very interesting
Royal entrance
The Royal entrance
Roger's Hall

The King Roger’s Hall is a rectangular hall covered with a cross vault supported by arcs and marble pillars, with re-used Corinthian capitals.  There were originally two double lancet windows on the east side and three lancet windows on the north side. Using high 3D technol-ogy, recent studies confirmed this plan. All the walls are covered by white marble slabs, with a frame in the middle, and gold ground mosaics on the top. The mosaics may be contemporary with the ones from the Palatine Chapel, but they represent pagan themes without any reference to Christian allegories.  The mosaics all represent the Genoard, the Zisa’s big garden, full of trees, animals, and hunting scenes. At the centre of the vault there is an eagle, symbol of power and nobility, killing with its claws a rabbit, symbol of cowardice. All these images are inspired by middle-east models.  The floor was replaced manyfold times through the centuries, but it contains some original parts in porphyry. It is difficult to conjecture how it originally was used: the room was built by the first Norman king, Roger II, and it may have been destined for his leisure activities or as a bedroom or dining room.  G.B. Scaduto Traduzione a cura di Giulia Rullo e Paola Torre

Ceiling decorations
Ceiling decorations
Skylight
The skylight
Chinese room
The Chinese room
Sterilized calligraphy in the Palermo Royal Palace
Sterilized calligraphy
German heritage Eagle
I was told by the future conte Federico that the eagle is from German heritage

The Pisan Tower is to be considered as the core of the Norman power within the Royal Palace, and the manifesto of the monarchs’ political success in the town. The tower considerable size is probably due to the fact that it served as a donjon, a military role it played from the Norman period to the times when it was called “turri mastra” (master tower) by the architect Ferramolino in the XVI century. The Pisan Tower was probably built under the reign of Roger II of Hauteville, and definitely before the construction of the Palatine Chapel. Its “double shell” structure was inspired by some northern Africa buildings like the XI century Qasr al-Manãr at the Qal’a of Beni Hammad.  Inside, the Pisan Tower central room, more than 15 meters high, with its large window and its surmounting porthole, inspired deference in those who went to meet the king. In fact, the mosaics covering the walls (of which only some fragments full of gaps remain today) narrated of battles glorifying the Hautevilles and the king. This repertory of figures was supplemented by phytomorphic elements, which can be compared with others in Roger Il’s Hall. It is probable that, at the time of Frederick II, in this solemn place, used as throne room by the Norman and Swabian kings, where Eastern and Western Mediterranean cultures met, important verses were written which contributed to the spreading of the Italian language through the Sicilian School of Poetry.

Dining hall
The dining hall
Community meeting room
This is obviously used for a community official meeting room

The Norman and Swabian pottery. Norman pottery in Sicily is linked to the Islamic age production, their common features being, for example, the technique used or the persistence of some shapes. The similarities between the artefacts of the two periods show that the Muslim potters still worked even under the Norman rule, and as a consequence, the knowledge and expertise of the Islamic artisanal tradition were handed down to the pottery production of the following age; but, compared to the variety of the Islamic age, the shapes and decorations were simpler.  Between the late XI and the early XII century A.D., the typical shape is a deep hemispherical glazed bowl with a short brim’s edge that, according to some scholars, was already produced during the Islamic age, between the late X and the first half of the XI century A.D., alongside the more numerous open and carinated shapes. These vases show a transparent or green glaze of modest quality, and few brown elements; or they are colourless, with or without a surface discolouration. During the Norman age the bowls sides and brims get thicker and thicker and they show a recurring decoration, a plait or leaf pattern. Moreover, during the late Norman age, there is a production of green glazes with a furrow decoration performed before the firing. The. spreading of this kind of products over various areas, mainly along the. Tyrrhenian coasts, is supported by documentary evidence. In Sicily, the connections with the Byzantine Empire are attested by the rare presence of yellow, on engobe, glazed pottery, with a graffiti decoration. Starting from the late XII century A.D. and during the first three quarters of the XIII, brown and green pottery decorated with spirals arrives from Campania, later imitated by the Sicilian potters whose products only show green decorations. From Tunisia comes the “cobalt and manganese” pottery, painted in brown and blue over a white enamel, and from Liguria comes the so-called “graffita arcaica tirrenica” pottery.  Carla Aleo Nero, Monica Chiovaro

Beautiful ceiling
Beautiful ceiling
Three carriages
Three styles of carriages at the Palermo Royal Palace
Tribute to the Norman Kings
The foundation to preserve this palace is named after the Norman Kings

Palermo’s fortifications. during the Norman-Swabian age. On January 10, 1072 the Normans, after a six-month siege, conquered Madinat Sigilliya. The conquest accounts seem to indicate that «high walls» closed in a single defensive line the whole town perimeter and that a further defence were Balarm’s huge fortifications. Yet, some scholars date Palermo’s wide outer walls circumference to the Norman age. However, Norman Palermo had a complex fortified system that was the result of various interventions and which was made up of several defensive structures: a wide surrounding outer wall; Balarm’s walls that kept their defensive function and helped maintain the control over the territory and that had also a function of internal barrage in a town where conflicts were common; a further fortified area within Balarm, called Galka, probably the Norman kings’ palatine town; two castles, the Castrum superius, corresponding to the Royal Palace, and the Castrum inferius or Castello a Mare.  The large outer town wall surrounded the whole urban area, which included Panormos-Balarm, called al-Qasr (the “castle”, “palace” or “fortress”) al-qadim (old”), and what the Norman age writers call the village, corresponding to the Khãlisa and to some quarters that developed during the Islamic age. The external wall measured little less than it measured in 1493 when it was «Surrounded […] by a string […] and it measured 3,253 canne» (that is 6.5 kms). In fact, it underwent several reconstructions, but its course was not changed, until the XVI century A.D. We know from al-Idrisi’s Book of Roger. (1154), that the town walls were «equipped with a wall, a moat and a shelter», and so, apart from the high wall, there were a moat and a rampart. Its average height was of 10 metres, it was strengthened by towers and along it opened at least 10 gates, placed where the main road axes were. The wall remains belong to different periods. Those ascribed to the Norman age seem to have been built with a double face made up of small squared blocks, bound by lime mortar and stuffed with shapeless stones and lime mortar and they are a little more than 2 metres thick. In the course of the centuries, the outer wall underwent important restoration works, the curtains were repaired and new towers were built. The wall made up of small blocks bound by lime mortar preserved in the archaeological area of the Royal Palace (stage Ill) has been related to the construction of the outer wall or to the construction of the Normans’ Castle. As it seems, the Swabians did not make any important changes to this fortified system. Traces of interventions dating back to Frederick Il’s age can be located on the so-called Master Tower and on the Castello a Mare.  Elena Pezzini

Chapel entrance
Entrance to the chapel
A lot of tourists
a long line waiting to get into the chapel
Chapel insides
Inside the chapel
Chapel ceiling
Chapel ceiling
Proof I was there
Just to prove I was there
Middle courtyard
Middle courtyard typical of many Italian Palazo
Decorated cart
Decorated cart
Palace front
The palace entrance were the poster promoting Erwitt photography exhibit
Entrance gate
Entrance gate

ELLIOTT ERWITT in Palermo

Elliott Erwitt in Palermo

Erwitt what’s famous for his photo of Marilyn Monroe standing over the draft from the air vent below, probably the subway, which blew up her dress. The photo below is not the exact photo that’s famous but it shows a little bit more action than the more famous one. It was interesting to see his exhibition in the Palermo Royal Palace.

Marilyn Monroe
Nixon with Khrushchev
There is another more famous photo of Nixon talking with Khrushchev over some kitchen related equipment and dubbed the “kitchen debate”. This photo I don’t specifically remember.
Hitchcock
of course you recognize Hitchcock
Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable
The last movie for Clark Gable and I think also for Marilyn Monroe
Memorable photo
This photo I remember will
Lion driving
Who is driving? Is it the lion?
Andy Warhol
Andy Warhol
Kennedy
French morning
Typically French in the 1950s
Not impressed
The lady is not impressed
Dog face
Twins?
The French leap
The leap of faith?
Where is it?
The most modern of art? Where is the beef? Where is the painting? Where’s the …. anything?

Walking around Palermo

What amazed me about the city is when you’re walking around Palermo you see a lot of things that you probably don’t expect to see. Sicily has been left behind economically in comparison to other places in Italy and the tourism has not been that robust. But I see a big change in that and a great improvement and many new building projects and renovations going on. You will see some poorer parts of the city right next to a newly renovated and beautiful church or a very nicely decorated Trattoria or bar. This is a great city to walk around and to just go around the backstreet to see what you can find. You need at least three days in the center to start to see some of the interesting attractions. Here are some of them.

Royal Palace statue
This is a statue being renovated at the Royal Palace
Street food
a back alley restaurant with food already prepared. This is a Sicilian eggplant dish and a Limoncello with very fresh bread. The people sitting next to me were from England and we had an interesting discussion.
Italian duk duk
This looks like a duk duk but the driver was playing Randy Travis country music which I found refreshing.
Nuovo porto
The New gate
The King of Spain
Some well-known fellow who is dressed like a medieval Viking but it seems it might be King Philip the fifth of Spain
His crest
His crest
Norman and Arabic architecture
One of the interesting Piazza with a few churches of Norman and Arabic architecture. I took a shot when the Carabinieri (national police) were driving through.
Santa Katrina Church
Santa Catarina Church
Walking around Palermo
Picture
A good picture menu
I went to a local café and they had homemade deep-fried rice balls with other stuff inside. It was a good little breakfast
Street art
Street Art very close to my apartment
Delicious pizza
Not much much thickness to the topping but very tasty and the crust was crunchy so delicious
My eating place
This narrow alleyway is where I often eat, near the apartment
Small Piazza
A small Piazza near my apartment
Narrow roads
These pathways became roads hundreds of years after the buildings had a foundation
Delicious pasta vongole
This spaghetti vongole which delicious. It had a buttery taste
Smart kid
This kid with the sunglasses just looked like a mover and shaker
Good prices and the food is pretty good
Good place to eat
You can find better food somewhere in the city but for the price performance and the closeness to the apartment this has been a good choice and they are serving me well as a repeat customer
Calamari
Calamari with a Campari spritz
Thai Restaurant
I don’t think this place is open anymore. I would’ve liked to at least look at the menu
My favorite café
Walking around Palermo I found this is my favorite café with different kinds of morning bread with coffee. I usually order café Lungo which means “long coffee”. So it’s just espresso with a little more water.
Café
This is a café Lungo
Pastry
The different pastry offerings at my coffee shop
Nearby Piazza
This is a statue in front of the church at Piazza San Domenico
New façade
This is a church in this Piazza which is getting a new façade it seems
Face hair
Trying to look more distinguished with face hair. I wonder if I will get more respect?

Exploring Italy Verona: A Culinary Journey

The cooking this restaurant is Japanese. The food was just like eating in Japan, good flavors.
We met a retired Plantology professor in Freising. He was born in Ireland but moved to Germany more than 30 years ago. He enjoyed drinking wine at the lunch. He was also very good Guide around this old and historical city
At a dinner with friends from Garda and Verona
Our dinner friends included to sommelier and this is the wine they chose. Very delicious.
A little overcooked around the edges but delicious 4 cheese
Just something for breakfast. The one on the right had pistachios on top
This restaurants FAGIOLI
This was at a restaurant out-of-the-way, newly opened and really delicious food . Bar Fuoricorso. Go here and try the food.
We had the second and fourth one from the top

Rome Vatican

I guess I don’t need to explain what this monument is. But I will give a hint, “entertainment”.
The arch of Constantine
The arch of Titus
I hope the game pieces don’t come alive
The former government buildings
Castel saint’Angelo
It’s amazingly small, I guess for small thoughts
Trajan’s market
The motorcycle rental shops love to rent Vespas, the stereotypical style is still in fashion
St. Peter’s Basilica
Inside the Vatican museum
The Sistine Chapel, accessed through the museum
you can see the Hebrew with the Latin. My understanding is that Hebrew was used only in the religious arena and the intelligence spoke Greek since this was formally a Greek influenced area of the Mediterranean. The local people probably spoke Aramaic
I don’t know the significance of the pinecone
Vatican City area

Verona – AIDA at the Arena

these opera productions in the arena in Verona seem to be very popular. There must’ve been 8000 people there.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aida

You can see this giant mesh behind the stage is really a hand with fingers which move. It was a very interesting set and very lavishly Done

here is the link to the famous triumphal March.

https://youtu.be/l3w4I-KElxQ?si=R-gLhPIsZfiPNzGq

verona – Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore

just go visit this place. It’s so beautiful and has such an amazing history.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Zeno,_Verona

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Zeno,_Verona

The original bronze doors
St Zeno is here.

verona – around town

if you have ever heard of Shakespeare and his play called “Romeo and Juliet” then you have heard of the city of Verona in northern Italy not far from Venezia.

This is supposedly the home and the balcony of Juliet. I say “supposedly” because this house is not where she lived. At least this house, if you believe she ever existed, was not owned by the family at the time. And it is questionable the Shakespeare ever saw this house . I have been told by Verona residence, good friends of mine, that the house owned by the family was actually downtown and is now a shop.
You’re supposed to touch the boob. I don’t know why. Maybe it’s an Italian thing.
This is just a neighborhood bar and coffee shop where some Verona friends and a friend from Lake Garda gathered for a spritz and a glass of wine.
https://www.visitverona.it/en/poi/statue-of-camillo-benso-count-of-cavour

MUSEO CIVICO DI STORIA NATURALE below

It look of waking up early in the morning
This is a huge mosquito

MUSEO DI CASTELVECCHIO below

This is the tower which you can climb for the view

verona – a gentleman visits

Verona is very crowded with tourist but there are also some uncrowded places you can go which I was fortunate enough to enjoy with my friends from Verona and Guarda.

The arena is used often for opera and other events. It’s one of the older buildings in the city, more than 1500 years old.
At 6:30 in the morning when we arrived
We did not go up to the tower when the bells were ringing. It’s such a beautiful view from up here
I didn’t check this history out but it looks like a place where some bad people were hanging around
This is one of the palaces which is now a very interesting museum
Just imagine the people who painted the ceilings, lying on their back and getting perspective
I took this photo because this supposed kid looks like he’s 40 years old
It’s important to know the history of this guy. He not only influenced the Christian concepts of suffering, redemption and hell but he also standardized the Italian language.
This is Dante in Stone
From google map description: “The Arche Scaligere, located in Verona, are a monumental funerary complex in Gothic style of the Scaliger family intended to contain the arches (tombs) of the most illustrious representatives of the family.
The tombs are enclosed by a wrought iron enclosure in which the pattern of the staircase, a symbol of the house, is used, while the sarcophagi are located on the ground or on raised floors.
The arches are:
the ark of Cangrande I Della Scala
the ark of Mastin II
the sarcophagus of Albert I
the hanging ark of Giovanni della Scala
this is such a beautiful shop front for sausage, salami, olive oil and other necessities of Italian life.

verona – romeo and Juliet

so I think you understand the story of Romeo and Juliet. But now you are going to hear the rest of the story. This famous building, I have not conclusively determined, may or may not have been the building Shakespeare went to in describing his play. What I hear from local people is that Julia was a real person but lived in a different house in another part of town which is now a shop. But this is a nice tourist attraction where everyone is supposed to go to the bronze statue of Juliet and touch her boob. So you can go visit a house that Shakespeare may or may not have visited to try to experience a story that may or may not have happened. But the building ownership records are clear. Go to Verona and dig more for the rest of the story.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romeo_and_Juliet